Relishing Cranberries

Cranberries appearing in the organic section of the market are a sure herald that the season has shifted, whatever the weather is doing.  Berries are something I strive to eat as many of as possible, and while the last of the local strawberry crop can be found in my farmers' markets still, they are but a reminder of their summer glory.  Cranberries are closely related to blueberries, rich in antioxidants (higher than broccoli!) and vitamin C, can prevent and treat urinary tract infections and kidney stones.  I've learned to love cranberries raw and whole, in salads, and to appreciate their extreme sourness.  But my deepest cranberry love is as a condiment, preparably fresh and not too sweet, as part of a holiday meal.

I was piqued by a recipe in last month's Sunset magazine for an Indian spiced cranberry relish as part of a feature on spiced-up sides for Thanksgiving. I figured it would be amenable to fermentation, added dates to balance the tartness of the berries, a persimmon for extra color and digestive benefits, and turned down the heat a bit.  Fermenting made the flavor even more complex and will help it keep longer, up to a couple of weeks. It was especially memorable atop some grilled salmon this week, but I've also been known to eat it straight out of the jar.  I'll be bringing it to Thanksgiving this year, secretly supporting the digestive power and immunity of my loved ones.  My nutrition teacher during acupuncture school, Daniel Jiao, said that cranberry sauce would help counterract the drying and heating effect on the lungs that turkey (called "fire chicken" in Cantonese) can have.  Persimmons, too, are used in Chinese medicine to lubricate the lungs, strengthen the spleen, and treat alcohol intoxication, all helpful for withstanding holiday excesses. 

Fermenting with fruit is often best done by adding whey, which helps prevent the results from getting alcoholic by encouraging lactic acid bacteria instead of yeast.  I've been getting my whey lately by allowing a cup or so of raw milk to sour and separate at room temperature, then straining the results, but you can also get some by straining yogurt, as follows:

 

Whey and Yogurt Cream Cheese

Whey will keep a few months in the fridge, the cream cheese a few weeks.

1 qt. whole milk organic yogurt

Place a colander over a large bowl.  Line it with a kitchen towel and pour in the yogurt.  Cover.  Let drain 8-24 hours.  When it has achieved a consistency you like, pour the whey into a small jar and scrape the yogurt cheese off the towel into a container of your choice.

Cranberry-Persimmon-Date Relish

Adapted from a recipe in Sunset (Nov. 2012), this is a digestion-enhancing Indian spiced raw condiment for your holiday table. Vary it according to what fruit you have in abundance.

1 tablespoon coconut or olive oil

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

¼ tsp turmeric

1 bunch cilantro, stems removed

1 large jalapeno or other medium hot chile, coarsely chopped

1 cup fresh cranberries

1 large Fuyu or very ripe Hachiya persimmon, coarsely chopped or mashed

¼ cup dates, pitted

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons yogurt or raw milk whey

Heat a small frying pan on medium high, and add the mustard seeds and cover, letting most of them pop. Turn the heat down to low and  Add turmeric stir to brown.  Remove the pan from heat and set aside.

Put the jalapeno and cilantro in the bowl of a food processor set with the chopping blade, and pulse until coarsely chopped.  Add the cranberries, persimmon and dates and pulse again until you get a texture you like, similar to salsa.

Using a rubber spatula, scrape the relish into a bowl, and gently stir in the sugar, salt, whey and spices.  Place in a jar and seal, opening daily to check the flavor and release pressure.   After 2 or 3 days of fermentation, when the taste is to your liking, seal and store in the fridge.